** Thanks to UK to NZ, whose notes for Laos proved useful in planning our route **
Maps Used
• Laos (GT Rider – 1:1,666,666) (Available in the provincial capitals and major tourist towns in Laos, has a dozen town maps too. We had the 3rd edition from 2005. Distances are accurate)
Day 144 (25 October)
• Cycled: Menglun to Na Mor (aka Na Maw or Na Moi), Laos (105 km)
• Route: Rt GB511 in China, Rt 13 in Laos
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac. Wide, defined shoulder to cycle in China
• Traffic: Light and fast moving in China. Very light in Laos
• Slept: Mahychan Guesthouse
• Notes: From Mengla to the border it’s flat for around 20 km then gently undulating. Three short tunnels along the way. If cycling to Mengla from Laos on the GB511 note that the first Mengla exit next to a gaudy red and yellow hotel is actually to a newly built suburban extension about 5 km from the town. Stay on the 511 and take the next exit to Mengla. You’ll see the town to the north next to small hills. Crossing the border was straightforward. No photos were checked and our bags weren’t X-rayed leaving China. Visas on arrival for Laos. The yuan prices for the visas are at a spectacularly poor exchange rates. Pay in US dollars or kip instead. From the border it’s mostly downhill for 17 km to Na Hoi (aka Na Huey) which is at the crossroads to go toward either Luang Namtha or Oudomxay. Guesthouses, shops and cafes here. We cycled toward Oudomxay and stopped for the night about 25 hilly km later in Na Mor.
Day 145 (26 October)
• Cycled: Na Mor (aka Na Maw or Na Moi) to Oudomxay (51 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac.
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Litthavixay Guesthouse (excellent value at 60,000 KIP)
• Notes: Undulating terrain. Not much food along the way. Oudomxay is a medium sized town with the first ATMs we saw in Laos. We changed a few hundred dollars worth of yuan to kip at the Lao Development Bank on the road to Phonsali and at a shop next to the Western Union near the town’s main intersection. Decent, but dated, road maps of Laos are sold at the Litthavixay Guesthouse. The tourist information centre has lots of local info and local maps. They directed us to the Litthavixay for a map of Laos.
Day 146 (27 October)
• Cycled: Oudomxay to Pak Mong (83 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Worn, bumpy tarmac. Many large potholes spanning the width of the road and many short sections of dirt covered rocks.
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Guesthouse next to bus station (Poor value at 60,000 KIP, but better than the rooms we saw in town)
• Notes: Flat for 6 km, then mostly uphill for 45 km, then an undulating ridge ride for maybe 5 km, ending with mostly downhill to Pak Mong. The very poor road condition makes this a slower ride than anticipated, especially on the downhills. There is a small waterfall near the road 11 km from Oudomxay. Nice spot for a quick break. Would also be a nice spot to camp. Food is available every couple of km.
Day 147 (28 October)
• Cycled: Pak Mong to Luang Prabang (114 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Worn, bumpy tarmac most of the way, becoming smoother near Luang Prabang
• Traffic: Very light most of the way, becoming busy near Luang Prabang
• Slept: Namsok 3 Guesthouse (excellent value at 60,000 KIP; near entrance to Wat Xieng Muan)
• Notes: Undulating terrain with a downhill bias although there are many short steep climbs. Not many places for food until close to Luang Prabang.
Days 148-150 (29-31 October)
• Rest Days: Luang Prabang
• Slept: Namsok 3 Guesthouse
• Notes: We cycled to Tad See waterfall (13 km one way) and Kuang Xi waterfall (31 km one way). Both are worth visiting. Luang Prabang has all manner of shops and services. Bicycle stuff, including some Shimano components, can be found in a shop opposite the Children’s Cultural Centre. The pharmacy next-door had the best prices for name brand sunscreen we found in town. Don’t miss the nightly food market for dinner – a hungry cyclists dream.
Day 151 (1 November)
• Cycled: Luang Prabang to Kiew Kacham (79 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Worn tarmac
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Kiokajum Guesthouse (Tucked in the far corner of the village’s car park (the village is a rest stop for trucks and tour buses). Cramped rooms have mosquito nets, hot water in a shared wc, a covered common area to store bikes and great sunset views from the back)
• Notes: About 2000m of climbing with the second 1000m being gained over the final 20 km. Tough in the heat and sun. Shops and restaurants scattered along the way. When we cycled (early November) there were plenty of streams flowing from the mountain on the uphills to get water from. It probably wouldn’t be difficult to find a wild camping spot.
Day 152 (2 November)
• Cycled: Kiew Kacham to Kasi (94 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Mostly worn tarmac. Newer and smoother tarmac close to Kasi
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Guesthouse
• Notes: Despite being a ‘downhill’ day we still climbed 1400m. There is a village with shops and restaurants about 20 km from Kiew Kacham, then little else until Phou Khoun which is another 30 km. Phou Khoun is a busy place with many guesthouses, shops and restaurants. Twenty km before Kasi is a roadside hot springs with water that is more warm that hot. When we visited there was a large shallow pool with a small cascading waterfall flowing into it. Construction was underway around the pool. There is a guesthouse and restaurant here. Kasi is a busy town with an ATM, a couple if guesthouses and restaurants and many shops. Great scenery, especially from Phou Khoun to Kasi.
Day 153 (3 November)
• Cycled: Kasi to Vang Vieng (60 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Mostly worn tarmac. Many dirt and rock sections near Vang Vieng
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Chillao Guesthouse (ok value at 40,000 KIP)
• Notes: Mostly flat or slightly downhill with one gentle climb that peaks about 25 km south of Kasi. Nice scenery.
Days 154 & 155 (4 & 5 November)
• Rest Days: Vang Vieng
• Slept: Seng Aloun Guesthouse (excellent value at 40,000 KIP: large, clean rooms; comfortable beds; good linens; hot water; wifi; bikes stored in room or outside; small, covered common area; behind house away from the main road)
• Notes: Tubing on the river is a great way to spend a day, and if you get injured the Vang Vieng hospital is pretty good for stitches.
Day 156 (6 November)
• Bus: Vang Vieng to Vientiane (50,000 KIP/person plus 25,000 KIP/bike)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Worn tarmac interrupted by many potholes and short dirt sections.
• Traffic: Light, becoming increasingly busy near Vientiane.
• Slept: Mixay Paradise Guesthouse
• Notes: Rt 13 between Vang Vieng and Vientiane is in fairly poor condition. Many cyclists cycle Rt 10 instead. It’s possible to hire a boat across the Ang Nam Ngun reservoir for between 300,000 and 350,000 KIP. Rt 13 is not flat.
Days 157 & 158 (7 & 8 November)
• Rest Days: Vientiane
• Slept: Mixay Paradise Guesthouse
• Notes: Mixay Paradise becomes good value if you opt for the more expensive rate with breakfast, which is tasty and enormous. The guesthouse has a much appreciated elevator (our room was on the 4th floor). We obtained Cambodia visas same-day for 20 USD.
Day 159 (9 November)
• Cycle: Vientiane to Thabok (97 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Good tarmac
• Traffic: Very heavy leaving Vientiane. Moderate until about 30 km from Vientiane, then light until Thabok
• Slept: T&M Guesthouse
• Notes: Very flat. Just before Thabok a side road leads toward two waterfalls (13 and 14 km from Rt 13). Thabok has a couple of guesthouses and a bunch of restaurants.
Day 160 (10 November)
• Cycle: Thabok to Pak Kading (96 km)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Good tarmac
• Traffic: Light
• Slept: Vida Guesthouse
• Notes: Very flat. Medium sized town of Pakson is about halfway, with guesthouses, shops, ATMs and restaurants. Pak Kading has a couple of guesthouses and a bunch of restaurants. Arrive early enough and there would be time to hire a boat up the river into the Nam Kading NPA.
Day 161 (11 November)
• Cycle: Pak Kading to Khoun Kham (89 km)
• Route: Rt 13 to Vieng Kham, Rt 8 to Khoun Kham
• Road Condition: Good tarmac
• Traffic: Light
• Slept: Xok Xai Guesthouse
• Notes: Flat on Rt 13. Undulating on Rt 8 followed by a short steep climb (max at 16%) that peaks at about the km 34 marker near a great viewpoint. Steep, fast descent to Khoun Kham. The main part of the town is set one street back from Rt 8. Probably a dozen guesthouses in town, but not many places serving food, especially after 7pm. A trail to Tat Namsanam (waterfall) begins next to the temple on Rt 8. The first 2 km can be cycled, then follow the signs on foot. The trail to the waterfall is definitely more than the 3 km stated on the sign by the road and in guidebooks. Very few opportunities for drinks or snacks on Rt 8 before Khoun Kham. Best to get them at the Rt 13 junction.
Day 162 (12 November)
• Cycle: Khoun Kham to Lak Sao (57 km)
• Route: Rt 8
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Phouthavong Hotel
• Notes: Rented motorbikes (70,000 KIP from Xok Xai Guesthouse) to visit Kong Lor cave, which is 42 km from Khoun Kham on a sealed and very flat road. Boat journey through the cave (110,000 KIP for up to 3 people) was excellent and highly recommended. There is a great swimming spot where the boat tour starts/ends. Rt 8 climbs steeply from Khoun Kham, followed by a much shorter descent, then undulating terrain, a flat section, a short hill and then more flatness until Lok Sao. A few villages along the way with poorly stocked shops. Only saw one guesthouse, maybe 12 km from Khoun Kham, before Lak Sao, which has a dozen guesthouses, ATMs, restaurants and shops.
Day 163 (13 November)
• Cycle: Lak Soi to Gnommalath (97 km)
• Route: Rt 1E (8B)
• Road Condition: Sand, dirt, rocks, gravel, potholes, large ruts, broken tarmac and smooth tarmac. This road has about every surface imaginable. It’s definitely in poor condition, but not nearly as bad as guidebooks and some other cycle blogs suggest. The worst parts of the road end around 38 km from Lok Sao. Good tarmac returns at Nakai for a fast downhill and flat ride to Gnommalath.
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Phouthavong Guesthouse (1 km from intersection with Rt 12.
•Notes: Villages with shops every couple of kilometers along the way. There is a guesthouse and restaurant about 50 km from Lak Sao, just after the long bridge over the reservoir. Nakai is a large village and might have a guesthouse.
Day 164 (14 November)
• Cycle: Gnommalath to Thakhek (66 km)
• Route: Rt 12
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Phonepadidh Guesthouse
• Notes: Flat, smooth ride. We stopped at Tha Falang and Than Xieng Liap, which are almost across the road from each other about 11 km from Thakhek. Both have nice swimming holes.
Day 165 (15 November)
• Bus: Thakhek to Pakse (60,000/person; no bicycle fee)
• Route: Rt 13
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Tha Luang Guesthouse
• Notes: This section is full of small, gentle hills.
Day 166 (16 November)
• Motoscooter: Pakse to Tadlo
• Route: Rt 13, Rt 20
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac
• Traffic: Light
• Slept: Saylomyen Guesthouse
• Notes: 100cc Honda Wave motoscooter rental costs 100,000 KIP for 2 days from the shop next to the Bolavan cafe in Pakse.
Day 167 (17 November)
• Motoscooter: Tadlo to Pakse
• Route: Tadlo to Thateng to Pakxong to Pakse
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac
• Traffic: Light
• Slept: Sabaidy 2 Guesthouse
• Notes: Coffee tours in Pakxong (50,000/person including cups of coffee) originate under the ‘Coffee’ sign in town. Pakxong Market has a great selection of donuts and fried dough. Visited Tad Leung, Tad Fane and Tad Champsee waterfalls (each 5,000 KIP/person plus 3,000 KIP/motoscooter). I thought each of them was better than the waterfalls near Tadlo. Swam at Tad Leung and Tad Champsee.
Day 168 (18 November)
• Cycle: Pakse to Kiet Ngong (60 km)
• Route: Rt 13 to Thang Beng, Rt 18 to Kiet Ngong
• Road Condition: Smooth tarmac on Rt 13. Hilly dirt and gravel on Rt 18
• Traffic: Light
• Slept: Kingfisher Ecolodge
• Notes: Flat as a lumpy pancake. Good donuts available at Rt 13 junction with Rt 18. Entrance fee for Xie Pian NPA is 20,000 KIP/person and is collected on Rt 18.
Day 169 (19 November)
• Rest Day: Kiet Ngong
• Slept: Kingfisher Ecolodge
• Notes: Took elephant ride to Phu Asa archeological site (120,000 KIP). Kingfisher Ecolodge is nice, but pricey for Laos. The villagers in Kiet Ngong run a much more affordable homestay programme. Kiet Ngong also has three simple restaurants. Herds of water buffalo and solitary elephants can be seen in the wetlands along with lots of birds. The tourism office has a wide range of trekking and elephant riding tours on offer.
Day 170 (20 November)
• Cycle: Kiet Ngong to Don Khong
• Route: Rt 18 to Thang Beng, Rt 13 to Don Khong turnoff (101 km)
• Road Condition: Alternating smooth and bumpy tarmac
• Traffic: Very light
• Slept: Ratana Riverside Guesthouse (very nice, but pricey at 120,000 KIP)
• Notes: Mostly flat. Not much food available. Don Khong can be reached with a bicycle from either the northern passenger ferry dock (15,000 KIP each way) or the southern the vehicle ferry dock (5,000 KIP each way). Coming from the north, using the southern vehicle ferry dock adds 11 km of cycling compared to using the northern passenger ferry dock. Access roads to both docks are well signed (brown signs) from Rt 13.
Day 171 (21 November)
• Cycle: Don Khong to Stung Treng (Cambodia)
• Route: Rt 13 in Laos, Rt 7 in Cambodia (98 km)
• Road Condition: Alternating smooth and brittle tarmac
• Traffic: Very light in Laos, saw more mobile phone towers than vehicles in Cambodia
• Slept: Riverview Guesthouse
• Notes: Laos customs check before border can be bypassed. At border, Laos officials wanted 2 USD each for our exit stamps. We got them down to 1 USD each, which we ended up paying because we called them corrupt and some other things and then got nervous they wouldn’t stamp us through. On reflection, the exit stamp is likely unnecessary. The border is busy and the guard at the pole gate was preoccupied with tour busses when we there and never asked to see our stamps. It’s worth cycling to the border, milling about for a few minutes, then trying to wall the bikes under the pole gate and into Cambodia. Cambodia officials don’t care. At Cambodia side they forced us to pay 1 USD each to check our temperature (backpackers on VIP bus didn’t have to pay) and 2 USD each for our Cambodia entry stamp (nicely dressed guy next to us was charged 5 USD). Not sure what can be done about these fees. So many tourists happily pay the bribes that the officials consider themselves entitled to them. Drinks and food available from roadside vendors at Cambodia side of border. Next opportunity is a small village 17 km from border, then very little available until a couple of km from Stung Treng (60 km from border). Almost no shade on Rt 7. Stung Treng has an ATM that dispenses USD, a large market and a half dozen places to stay. Guys running Riverside Guesthouse are very helpful. Good food served there too.